Roof of the Earth – Pamir Plateau Travel.

After watching Hotspring we started the journey again for the purpose of Ishkashim. Ishkashim is basically a village of Pamir. Wakhan Valley starts from this Ishkashim. Wakhan Valley is a road separate from the main Pamir Highway, but the area is famous for its natural beauty. The merchants of the former Silk Road did not usually travel through the Wakhan Valley because the road was long. But since we came to tour, we didn’t want to skip the Wakhan Valley. When the car is moving, the condition of the road is not so good. The driver kept asking if we had any problem, but I told him, I am coming from Bangladesh, I have a better experience than this. I told Apu Bhai that the road to Bichanakandi in Sylhet was worse than this! (I don’t know what the condition of the road in Sylhet is now, but the condition of the road in Bichnakandi was very worrying when I went)



Until then there was a network of proud operators. It seemed that the network was coming from Kharag’s tower. It looks good, on the one hand, there is a network, the internet is going to be used, on the other hand, the beauty of the surroundings can be seen. After going some distance our driver said he would climb a hill. The place is famous for taking pictures. People say get up on this hill and take pictures. The road to the hill is not paved, it is a dirt road. A one-way street, so no one can get up when one descends from the hill. We waited for a while for a car to come down the hill. After a while, we have the opportunity to climb that hill!



As soon as we climbed the hill, we were both fascinated by the beauty of this place. The mountains of Tajikistan on one side, the mountains of Afghanistan on the other side, the blue water flowing in the middle of the Akabaka Panj river, our equal clouds! I tried a lot to take pictures, but I could not bring the beauty of the picture in any way. I don’t think the pictures we have of Tulsi describe even 1% of the beauty of that place! I didn’t get the idea to edit the picture, so no editing can be done! Among the beauty of the Pamirs, the cloud is the most captivating to me. When you walk around the mountains, you can see clouds from above, or clouds below. But clouds are not seen on flat land. But since Pami is a large area at a very high altitude, clouds can be seen on the plains. Vast field is often seen, clouds in the middle!



Wearing a hat and a jacket made me look like a real Tajik. If I didn’t have an empty beard, I would have become a full-fledged Tajik. On the other end of the hill, I saw what I know is farming. A tractor is driving a field. If there were trees, it would be possible to understand what kind of vegetables to cultivate, but there is no way to understand what crops are actually cultivated just by looking at the fields. I thought we would cultivate the plow like our country, pull the yoke instead of the cow, but I realized that the touch of modernity has been added here too! Next to him, I saw a huge flock of sheep grazing in the field. I also saw some yaks in the middle. That’s when it started to rain heavily. Seeing the rain, it seemed as if it was snowing! Even then, neither I nor Apu Bhai saw snow face to face in life! So we took pictures of ourselves with snow to get some idea on Facebook!



Unable to withstand the driver’s whims and fancies, we returned to the car. Now it’s time to get off the hill! When I got off, I saw a wagon getting up, so we had to wait for about 15 minutes! I thought if it was Bangladesh, our driver would get out of the car and stay, then the two of them would fight! Good luck Tajik drivers, they are very tolerant of one another. After the wagon driver got on, we started to get off. I didn’t understand how risky the road was when I got up, I realized when I got down, what a risk! If the car slips, the river Panj is below, and there is nothing above but Allah! Our driver finally managed to successfully bring the car down to the main road and we started our journey again along Pamir Highway towards Ishkashim!

The nature of the surroundings was changing very fast. Some hills will look just as fragile, and some hills will look just as well-formed. Most of the mountains are part of Afghanistan, seeing all this increased the desire to travel to Afghanistan! One thing I was very surprised to think, if there is an empty space in our country, there will be nothing but grass, but I could not see anything here except small shrubs !. Some dried trees, herbs. Most are dry. After a while, on the way, we stopped the car and got out of the car and took pictures. I suddenly thought about what it would be like to take a flying picture! I told Apu Bhai to jump up and take pictures. I’ll jump in and he’ll take pictures. Because of the sitting job, it was understood that I played twelve of the body. I can’t give a jump! Physical activity has not been done for a long time, I stopped cycling on it for about 1 year and as a result tar was found. Then with 2-3 increments, I was able to jump successfully, and after the jump, I was out of breath. I thought, maybe you can’t hold your breath because of the high altitude, so you can’t actually jump! (Santana Archie). My brother tried to fall, but his condition is the same! If he jumps, his feet do not get up from the ground! Both of us realized that the evil of sitting all day is now catching our hands! I jokingly said, “It’s getting old!” ”

After much fuss, we got the desired picture and got back in the car. The weather outside was very nice then. The sun has risen, there are no rain, clear skies over it. Our country is a lot like the autumn sky, but the wind is our country

Like winter! I thought it probably sprang time now, then I thought again Bengali season is not supposed to work here, again I thought, season is season, be it Bengali and Tajik are all the same! Although at one time the beautiful autumn sky could be seen in Dhaka city, I have not seen it for the last few years! Although the current weather should not be compared with the weather in Bangladesh, the Bengali, the comparison comes!



We started the journey again, after going some distance we saw something white on the side of the road! Asking the driver, he said that it was ice frozen from the snow. The throat is not finished yet, it will melt in a few days! For the first time in our lives, we had the good fortune to see the snow and asked to take the car back! I will see Kaptesi in full excitement then, for the first time in my life. I did not go to Kashmir or Ladakh, so I did not actually see the snow! Our car was frozen by the snow, and we both got out of the car to see the snow for the first time in our lives. It was a bit dirty because of the snow a long time ago, but we took pictures of the snow with our hands from there! A wish of life is fulfilled! I’ve only seen snow in movies all my life, but I’ve never caught snow! I tried to take pictures with a little bit of snow on both of them so that it could be instantly given on Facebook (even then the poor operator has a 2G network, we are sending light thin messages). The driver was quite surprised to see us in this excitement. He does not understand what it is to see! But we can’t explain to him that in the country where we live, especially in the city where we live, wearing this jacket is not only after winter but also after snow. With the ice in my hand, I realized that the thing was not as cold as I thought it would be. Hands are not frozen in this snow, so I thought maybe the snow is not too cold! (Although later this idea proved to be completely wrong)

We started our journey again with a knife in the snow for the purpose of Ishkashim. The road conditions are not very good. It cannot be called a dirt road, nor can it be called a paved road. Puratukui made of stone, but equal. Maybe the road was paved before, this has been the case to break! Trucks may not run on this road like in Bangladesh, but big lorries from China pass through this road, which seemed to me to be much heavier than our trucks. Talking to the driver, I learned that this is the condition of the rest of the road in the Tajik part of the Pamir Highway. We crossed the rural road and started walking towards Ishkashim! Small children are playing in the village, almost all the shops are closed because it is a Sunday. Almost every village has a huge dog, which barks in front of the car! The dogs look like dogs in our country, but much larger in size. These dogs are the main ones in the flock. Talking to the driver, I realized that these dogs bite whenever they find a stranger! I have no hobby to come to this tajike and eat 14 injections in the stomach, so I started to be careful when I saw the dog! I checked my mobile and saw that the poor operator Beeline has a network, but 2G internet does not work, I still don’t know if the network is gone, when it will come back again, how can I spend the rest of the day without oxygen!



That’s all for this episode. The next episode will tell you how I found a homestay in Ishkashim, what I learned about Wakhan Valley culture, family customs, what kind of career plans a teenager there has, how many lucky job opportunities we have in Bangladesh, what medical facilities in such a remote area, Oxygen (mobile network) What to do to get, how to get to the anchor from Ishkashim and much more!


Leave a Comment